Histoire de Perle

THE HISTORY OF PEARLS


Pearl Hunting and Farming
This first step consists of capturing the oyster larva that is found in protected lagoons in salt water zones.  This can be carried out naturally by using seaweed or synthetic nylon traps.
For a successful capture, the estimated seed provision total can only be determined after several months; and is based on an average of multiple random gatherings.
Pearl farmers who know the particularities of their farming zone well (predators & diseases etc), should be able to anticipate the number of juveniles potentially harvestable for farming.  It is not impossible that the number of estimated seeds during the early months is halved a year later.  Nor is it impossible to estimate the number of seeds in any one farm based on judgement, which in general results in interesting negotiations between the potential buyer and the farmer.

Coquillage

The action to harvest the seeds to allow their development consists in delicately cutting the byssus (filament) that links them to the main element with the help of a knife.  A byssus that has been torn off would mean a damaged  byssogene gland and would result in the probable death of the nacre.
The link that unites the seed can be recreated by the help of a nylon thread which is planted in the core at a very particular point and knotted to a support of which there are many types.
An initial cleansing and a split by size is carried out.  This essential farming operation is to allow sufficient space for the nacre to develop correctly by providing better access to the food which depends directly on the volume of filtered water (80-100 litres/hour for the younger species).
With this rationalisation, the real phase of captivity of the nacre begins.  What now unites it to its farming support is now determined by the farmer. 

In function of the size and under good conditions, this phase – also known as pre-development  - can last from 1 to 1½ years.  This is not a minor stage, it is essential for the pearl farmer to manage the cleansing of the  supports which will allow the nacres to gain weight.


The cleansing consists of eliminating the membranes mechanically (compressors, knives, brushes) or by the salt beds. The growth of a ‘clean’ nacre is considered to be quicker and more homogenous.   

 

 

The flotation is carried out by buoys.  The ideal depth for growth is between 5 and 10 metres.  Growth  beyond this distance weakens the quality.

 

Two and a half years separate this domestic nacre ready to transplant its surplus larva to its limited chances of survival.   Two and half years of anguish for the farmers – looking out for the maraamu southern winds which age and break the structures….two and a half years of being woken up at 5 in the morning to mend the engines required to operate all day long….two and a half years of endless dives…two and half years of counting only on oneself and hoping the elements will be with them.  Papeete seems so far in the distance and the men and material so vulernable.

The nacres are cleaned and then carefully chosen in function of 2 criteria : the state of their health in general and the colours that are present on the internal shell.  All imperfect nacres are rejected (weak opening muscles; abundance of mucus; old; insufficient colour etc).

Let’s look now at the collage phase.  Generally, a half nucleus is used and will become the heart but other forms can be expected.
The nacres are then returned to the water on their supports or in baskets… 

…for a period of 6 to 8 months, where the nacre will develop and will cover the area that was added during the transplant.  After 12 months, a 1mm layer of nacre is expected.  The quality will depend on the following: the life expectancy of the Mabe; the polish and the depth. 

Greffe

The harvest is the last step and which takes place in the farm itself.  The Mabes can be harvested by cutting the nacre on which they have grown, they can then be polished before being commercialised.  Other steps will take place at the jewellers workshops.